The Blue blood in the Bulgarian wine

Quite soon the wine had expressed an image of village product in our country and this viewpoint was consciously deprived from the class which it deserves.
We are again on way but the direction this time is October and more exactly the much talked about project „Ognianovo". This project has been talked about for more than 4 years but it was not till the end of May when it was opened officially in front of public. AH we know about this project is that a serious investment by SAPARD was made and behind it stayed names like Marc Dworkin and Stephan Von Neipperg. Dworkin is well-known in our country as a consultant of some Bulgarian wineries. The heriditory Count Von Neipperg is owner of five chateaus with wine-cellars in the Mecca of wine-Saint Emilion-Bordeaux in France-Canon La Gaffeliere,Chateau La Mondotte. Chateau d'Aiguille, Clos de l'Oratoire,Chateau Peyrot-and at the same time is a partner in „Bessa Valley Winery". „Since the year of 2000 we are coming very often to find an appropriate place and to realize that our dream to create a modern winery type "chateau" come true; this 'chateau' was created with contemporary conception but in the mean time related with its history „ shares Stephan von Neipperg.

The project BESSA VALLEY

The project „Bessa Valley" started in 2001 year with the purchase of 2400 decares in the territory of Ognianovo” village, Pazardjik region. Until now 1,050 decares of them are already planted. In reality be speaking of two separate investments by SAPARD united in one "Bessa Valley" and „Ognianovo Winery".
Quite soon was finished the building of the wine-cellar with a production capacity of 1 million bottles per year. In spite of Marc and Stephan was welcome us with the words: "That's a cellar French type “chateau”, from another side the winery safely could be situated as in California or Australia, as in all another place. We were surprised from the big areas of vines as we passed through the road next to the vineyard and when the nice constructions made of untreated stone burst upon us we have got a real idea about the measure of the investments. The area with vines is with southern exposure and from all sides is roundabout by mountainsides. 6.5 million euro has been invested in the project so far and another 0,5 million euro will be invested by the end of 2005 year. The biggest part of plantations are Merlot(60%), Cabernet Souvignion(around 5%) and Petit Verdo and Syrah accordingly 15 and 20%.The firs wine in the cellar is already fact. It has its premiere on „Winery”. It produced mainly from Merlot and was presented with the trade-mark Enira. It was among the surprises on the „Winery" for us. In spite of that a lot of people could not succeed to appraises its taste. It proved for us that Mark Dworkin is a real good vine-grower. On way or another Enira is not on the market yet and still is not clearly what would be the public’s reaction. The other thing which impressed us in that wine was the fact that it produced by quite new vine. Stephan Von Neipperg considers that the excellent qualities of the new vine are visible from a 2003 crops which happens seldom.” Usually the new vine produce quite simple wine but here we can see a really complex character. All the facts are presented on first place is the teroire, because “there is no great wine with out it”. Marc explains that everything depends as well on the vagaries of fashion, as on the specific micro climate”. The place is very pleasant because the summer is not hot (the max temperature are 32-33 graduates), the winter is relatively softness, during September and October it doesn’t rain a lot and moreover this year we had to wait nearly 2 weeks in September to drizzle so we could pick the Cabernet I the best conditions. As you can see, we are protected by frost bites, which are caused by the surrounding mountainsides. Last year the vine in the whole country were affected, decay etc., but we here had no problems with the vines.” On the question why do not they cultivate white sorts, Marc answers that this process is very interesting and he would like a lot to experiment with a part of the land which is still not planted in the near future. Stephan adds that he likes the white wines as well as he like some exceptional copies of popular pictures. “they are very beautiful but howsoever they are copies. The red wines can be developed more, as it is in our case – we controls all: how thick are the plantations, how many are their bunches, how many leaves we have to leave on a vine and so on. There is one specific moment with the red wines – in contrast to the white. If the envelopments rot that has negative reflection upon the wine and thus we strive to create healthy grape with healthy envelopments and with well-ripe seeds.
Count Von Neipperg told us that it is good to leave more leaves so that the fruits can ripe slower but better.” It is well-know that 50% of the sugar in the grape is produced by the leaves but only 20% of them are turn towards the Sun. For that we have to make a careful green pruning, so that the leaves around the fruits to be enough. This caused airy, because in the contrary case rotting, oidium and similar problems begin.

“It’s not important what we think, the question is what does the vine needs and this is the exact thing we try to do here – we listen our vineyard.”

In “Bessa Valley” four brunch of Merlot are cultivating. We asked them why they have stopped exactly on this sort. “When we started the project, we have taken 16 trails from different places in the vineyard and we took everything back in France where we sublimated them to delicate analyses, said Marc. But even without it the practice has proved long ago, that the limestone which is the basic component of the soil in these places, makes incredible Merlot. On the other side – the Cabernet planted on limestone is not so exciting. We have here limestone, clay and little granite and that makes us choose the Merlot even before the trails corroborate it. The Syrah is another sort which grows up and develops successful in a such soil. Whit Petit Verdo it is the same thing, but we have to see what will happen. In fact everything is so simple if you know the soil. I remember – Marc continued – what revolution occurred during the grape-harvest last year in the vineyard when we ordered all season’s workers to stop their work and to wait. We began to pick on 21st September and we discontinued on 23rd September. The workers were amazed-they were filled up only2-3 tanks and suddenly – stopped. We told them that we shall wait a little, while the grape elaborated completely. The secret in our wines is called fenol ripeness. The next year it may be completely different, nobody knows. The wine-producing is changeable craft and it depends a lot on the vagaries of Nature. But now we have at least studied one very important thing – we have time. We can afford to wait.”

The wine-cellars

We were impressed by the stone by which the cellar is build from the time of our arrival. We can clearly see on it scallops and mussels. That is how Marc Dworkin explains the stone’s origin: “Once a friend of us had found by chance an old, half-destroyed house in a small hamlet in the distance of 100 km from Plovdiv, and he called us with the words “boys, I have something for you”. Stephan and I went to the mayor of the village and we asked him whether we could take the stones. This offer even made him happy.” Stephan von Neipperg adds: “They fitted our conception to make attractive combination between the fashion and old-fashion very good. I think that would be even filled in the wine although the task is ambitious and we realize the fact that we take a risk.” Mark: ”Without risk is not interesting.” “I don’t take a any risks because I have used incredibly carefully chosen material from the beginning.” Count Stephan Von Neipperg admitted with immodest satisfaction. When you dispose of great grape you can do a wonderful wine, you can free your fantasy and to play with the wine. When however I have grape of poor quality I run over to safe fermentation and I use selected thrushes. If you dispose with a quality fruit you feel free.
We are getting in the vault, where the receiving pans are situated, we can see where they park the miniature tractors “Lamborghini” that could be account as a quite curious view during the time on campaign, describing slopes around the huge thanks. Everything is made of concrete, but it doesn’t create the feeling of old cellars from the time of socialism. All the same it is interesting decision campering to all the rest contemporary wineries, where with a little exceptions the unrusty steel and the new French barrels are the first thing that come in front of your eyes.“ The stainless steel is a good thing but not for the wine – smiles Stephan – It is the same as to put it into a can. Nevertheless, we have noticed some tanks made inox. Also we have containers created from stainless steel – explains Mark – we are going to create a specific technology process in them called pijaje.” The pijaje is not revolutionary method in oenology but it is used very often lately. The important thing is that the grape in it is not pressed. This is the so called vinification – says Stephan.” At the first day of the vintage both Stephan and I looked at each other with surprise when we saw the grape and we decided not to press it. It was with an excellent quality “ – says Mark.
We enter the next cellar which is considerably smaller but with a very attractive shape of Rotonda. Over the second floor there are windows and the sunlight makes it look  cozy. We can easily see that the visitors will be meet here most of the times. “We decided to put a little more history in this building.” Shares Count Von Neipperg. Outside around the Rotonda there is a small inner courtyard with a small pool which impend to elaborate for a wine tourism.

Mark Dworkin: “It would be great if another investors come in the region.”

The wines we tested completely showed us their own style and character. It was interesting to degustate the first pressed Syrah on “Bessa Valley” that amazed us with mellowness, balance and also with the very attractive fragrance of meat, pepper and fresh liver. The longer taste continuance was also impressive because it is not typical for the pressed wines. Enira, 2004 crops, possesses the best of the same reserve, 2003 crops, which was presented in the “Winery” with specific vegetal accents (hair of maize), soft freshness, and ripe tanyns. The correlation of new oak barrels in Enira Reserva 2004 crops is 20%. The correlation of Enira 2004, which should be bottled in the end of August is 50 to 50 per cents. “The next year we will be using 20% new barrels again” shares Mark Dworkin. “That are wines which bares the wood very well” – Count Stephan Von Neipperg says with no doubts. “ We work only with French oak but we have attempts to try the Bulgarian oak also. The problem with the Bulgarian oak is that when the wood is started to be processed, it is cut very often in irregular way, which destroys its structure. Most of our barrels are delivered for the second time from one of my domains in Saint-Emilion-Canon La Gaffeliere. Stephan Von Neipperg states that there is no difference between the domain here and these in France. He says that he loves all of his estates, but he takes a liking to Ognianovo, because he finds it to smell very good.
“Bessa Valley” and “ Ognianovo Winery” are in the beginning of their developments but it has to be admitted that Mark is full of ideas and experience. He is already working hard on a new project in Liubimetz, so new surprises are expected.

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